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Events History and Heritage

Castle Class: Celebrating 250 Years of Tregenna Castle

View of St Ives from Tregenna Castle

Lyn Burchess of St Ives Archive celebrates the 250th anniversary of Tregenna Castle in St Ives with stories of secret passages, the visit of a crown prince, steam locomotives and hosting US President Joe Biden.

This year marks the 250th anniversary of Tregenna Castle in St Ives, Cornwall. Originally the country house of Squire Samuel Stephens, Tregenna Castle, has since 1878 evolved into a luxury holiday hotel. Perched high above the town it offers breathtaking views of the historic St Ives Harbour, with its centuries-old cottages and the rugged North Cornish coast (see photo above).

Travelling Westward (Country Life May 13, 1922) described Tregenna Castle ‘as a standing sentinel amid its parks and woods above and behind the town of St Ives’, a position it proudly asserts to this day. The original house was attributed to John Wood the Younger famous for his work at The Assembly Rooms Bath and was constructed by a local builder from Penryn. It was built on the site of the old Tregenna homestead named after the long extinct family of that name. Beautifully hand coloured architectural drawings by Plymouth architect George Whitwick in 1845, now in the RIBA collection at the V&A, show the north side wing extension and the creation of service quarters at the rear. A further south side wing was added in 1922 thus achieving the symmetry seen today (see photo below).

Samuel Stephens Junior, who had inherited the property from his father, was the Member of Parliament for St Ives from 1818 to 1820.  Papers held by The National Archives recall that old inhabitants can remember being told by their parents how they were brought up to the castle to line the drive and cheer the Squire’s departure to London.  The day was a general holiday and the four horse coach took three weeks to arrive at its destination. The coming of the railway to St Ives was to dramatically change all that.

In 1871 Henry Stephens placed the house and the estate, which comprised most of the old town, up for auction. It was bought by mining industrialist Thomas Bolitho who was a director of Barclays and the local Bolitho’s Bank. The Great Western Railway (GWR) were looking to build a branch line to St Ives from St Erth on the main Paddington – Penzance line, which was completed in June 1877. Thomas Bolitho as one of the railways promoters quickly saw the opportunity to lease Tregenna Castle to  GWR and the 42-year lease was signed in March 1878 by the famous GWR Chairman Daniel Gooch who with Isambard Brunel designed most of the broad gauge locomotives for GWR.

Tregenna Castle today

On 4th August 1878, the grand opening of this railway hotel took place. Coverage in the local Cornishman Newspaper announced the modern facilities provided and also commented on the beautiful lantern at the top of the staircase embellished with the Stephens coat of arms (see photo below). The Cornishman heartily wished the GWR scheme every success and what a success it was. This necessitated various alterations over the next 50 years, which by 1932 witnessed the expansion from the original 12 rooms, to 120.

In 1926, the Great Western Railway Magazine boasted a recent discovery, during the alteration phase ‘of a certain underground passage under the wine cellar leading to a secret underground room large enough to hoard many a smuggled hogshead in the Squires days. The underground passage made an unsuspected exit where the dining room now stands’. The hotel unusually benefitted from a heating system that was not only powered by boilers maintained by The Swindon engine works but  were also fired by railway coal. The integration with the railway brought many other benefits according to GWR minutes, including a handed down GWR bus and in 1936 the redundant telephone system from Paddington Station.

The Hotel has played host to many famous visitors, including Herr Ribbentrop, Hitler’s Foreign Secretary who it is understood enjoyed visiting Cornwall, particularly St Ives. Because of this, it has been suggested he wanted to make Tregenna Castle his retirement home. Crown Prince Chichibu of Japan, who played an important part in Japan’s post WW2 reconstruction, also stayed on separate occasions. More recently Tregenna Castle hosted Joe Biden, President of America and his entourage, the United Nations, the Presidents of Australia, South Korea, South Africa and the EU Council for the 2021 G7 Summit held at Carbis Bay.

The Stairwell Lantern with the Stephens Family Coat of Arms

As an established golf resort, Tregenna bravely allowed its golf course to serve as a helipad. Marine One and Two were landed as required but it was the three accompanying V22 Osprey that left burn marks, causing much damage at the time. The downdraft of helicopter blades displaced large quantities of sand from the bunkers that needed replacement after the event. A marquee erected there too, served 6500 meals to contractors and staff during the course of the week. The dignitaries dined in the elegant Trelawney Suite  

It is also noteworthy that from 1880-1940 four ships owned by the local Edward Hain Line, latterly P&O, were named Tregenna in homage to this renowned location. Adding to the prestige Tregenna Castle also lent its name to the famous GWR ‘Castle Class ‘locomotive which pulled The Cheltenham Flyer on its world record breaking speed journey on 6th June 1932 achieving a blistering average speed of 81.6 mph. 

The Tregenna Castle Hotel continues to this day its tradition of giving back to the community with the support and funding of the Saints Boarders two storey Tregenna Surf Club House this facility provides accessible toilet facilities, board store , club house and cafe located by the Tate St Ives Gallery. As part of the 250 year celebration The Tregenna Castle team are also giving back to the environment by planting 250 trees in the Resort. Tregenna aims to minimise their ecological footprint, preserve natural beauty and enhance bio diversity. James Parker Operations Director said ‘together lets grow a greener future and ensure that Tregenna Castle remains a beacon of sustainability and natural beauty for the next 250 years and beyond.

A celebratory afternoon tea with Richard Long, author of The St Ives Branch Line: A History, is being held at Tregenna Castle on 6th September this year with all proceeds to the St Ives Archive.

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History and Heritage

The History of the Old Stennack School in Venture Magazine

Atkins Ferrie Wealth Management Services occupies an office in the cookhouse at the back of the old Stennack School in St Ives. The former school has a rich history as a building and holds fond memories for many local community members who were educated there. AFWM asked the St Ives Archive to research the history of the school for publication in its quarterly in-house magazine, Venture, that goes out to all its clients and staff. The resultant story is contained in the article which is printed in full below.

The Old Stennack School article in Venture Magazine
The Old Stennack School article in Venture Magazine
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History and Heritage

St Ives and RMS Titanic

The 15th April 2024 marks the 112th anniversary of the most famous shipwreck of all and a chance to look at the fate of St Ives’ Titanic passengers. Of 2,233 on board, 7 were from our town. AGNES DAVIES (née FRIGGENS), her son JOHN and friend MAUDE SINCOCK (née ROBERTS), were among the 705 picked up by RMS Carpathia. As Titanic broke apart and sank, Maude thought the loud noise she heard was the boilers exploding. Agnes tells what happened next:

My older son Joseph (Nicholls) had dressed and he came to the stateroom and put lifebelts on us. Through all this time we had received no warning from the steward, no orders to prepare for anything like what we were to experience. Had it not been for our curiosity to learn what was going on we might have perished. We went on deck about 12.15 and my son (John) and myself were placed in the 3rd lifeboat.

Joseph helped to place us in the boat and asked permission to enter it himself, this being refused with the threat that he would be shot if he attempted to get in. I pleaded with the officers in vain that he be allowed to come with me. There were about 50 in the boat but there was room for more. After we were lowered away and before the boat left the ship some men entered it by sliding down the davit ropes. The men in charge of the boat rowed as hard as they could to get away from the ship. By the time she sank, which was at 1.45, it seemed as if we were miles away, although I could hear the screams, cries and moaning of the drowning passengers.

They spent the night in that lifeboat among the icebergs and when morning came a sailor called out “That’s a ship” as he saw a speck appear on the horizon. The lifeboat rowed toward Carpathia and it was only when she was aboard that Mrs Davies learned that Joseph was among those who perished. Agnes married Richard Henry Nicholls in Penzance in 1886, a union that produced 3 children, one of whom was Joseph Charles. Listed on the 1901 census as a widow, she remarried insurance agent Robert Davies in 1903. John Morgan was their only child.

The St Ives newspaper of 3 May 1912 carried the following letter written by Maude on the Carpathia to her mother in Cornwall:

I am saved but have lost everything. I must however be thankful for my life. I have not a penny and no clothes. I was thrown on board a little boat in my nightdress and boots. I had no stockings on. We were in this little boat in the middle of the ocean for 6 hours. And I was nearly frozen when we were picked up. I shall be a pretty sight when I land.

We were rescued by a passing ship, Carpathia. Titanic struck the iceberg just before midnight and was underwater at about 2 o’clock. There were over 1,000 persons on board when she foundered. Mrs Davies and her son John Morgan (of the Stennack, St Ives) are saved, but we have seen nothing of Joe. We think he is drowned. We have not seen anything of the other ‘boys’ (William Berriman and William Carbines) who left St Ives. We could hear the screams from the men as the Titanic was sinking. I think there are hundreds drowned.

Mrs Davies told me to ask you to send a message to Balnoon to tell her aunt she is saved, but that we don’t know anything about Joe. I don’t know what I shall do when I get to New York. I am frightened to death nearly, and afraid I shall catch my death of cold by the time I get to Hancock. I will write again as soon as possible and tell you more news. I don’t know where they are going to put us when we get to New York.

Your loving daughter,

Maud

She was also known as Maud or Maudie and only stopped making pasties when she was 92, passing away a year later in 1984.

John and his mother settled in Hancock, Michigan. Agnes married an English-born firefighter named Richard Edwards in 1921, dying of cancer in 1933 aged 70. John took his own life aged 48 in December 1951, almost certainly from depression due to his divorce a few weeks earlier, by barbiturate poisoning while working in a Detroit drugs store. He was buried 4 days later in Lakeview Cemetery, Calumet, Houghton, Michigan.

The remaining 4 were travelling to mining work in Michigan.

William Carbines

The only repatriated body was that of WILLIAM CARBINES (19). Willie boarded the Titanic at Southampton as a second-class passenger (ticket number 28424, £13) with his friend William John Berriman and they were planning to join Carbines’ brothers Robert and John in Calumet. His body was among 306 recovered from the sea by the cable repair ship Mackay-Bennett and identified by his 2 brothers. On 10 May it was taken aboard the White Star Line’s Oceanic for transport to Southampton, arriving by train at St Ives on 27 May, met by a long concourse of people on the terrace overlooking the railway. Over 500 mourners paid their respects as he was interred in his grandparents’ (William and Anne Carbines) grave in Barnoon Cemetery on 30 May. A few weeks later his parents suffered further heartache when their youngest child George died on 24 June.

William Carbines’ funeral, 30 May 1912

The body of Agnes’ older son JOSEPH CHARLES NICHOLLS (19) was recovered from the sea on 23 April by the MacKay-Bennett, the first of 4 ‘mortuary’ ships chartered by White Star Line to search for bodies in the aftermath of the disaster. He was buried at sea as identification proved impossible. Possessions removed from the body were taken to Halifax, Nova Scotia and identified as belonging to Joe Nicholls by Carbines’ brothers. There is a memorial to him in the same Calumet Cemetery where his mother Agnes and younger stepbrother John are also buried.

William Carbines’ grave at Barnoon Cemetery

The body of WILLAM JOHN BERRIMAN (23) if recovered, was never identified. He is the only one of the 4 without a permanent memorial. His family suffered more heartbreak in the First World War when his brother Samuel was killed in action on 4 September 1916 while serving in the 8th Battalion of the Devonshire Regiment.

STEPHEN CURNOW JENKIN (32) was born at Nanjivey on The Stennack, emigrating with his elder brother to Houghton County, Michigan in about 1903 where he worked in the copper mining industry. They subsequently became U.S. citizens. He returned to St Ives in the summer of 1911 to visit his family. He was not due to return to the USA on Titanic but coal strikes meant his second-class reservation (ticket number C.A. 33111, £10 10s) was switched. He had misgivings about the new ship and left his valuables, including his watch, with his parents in case anything should happen to him. A postcard he sent from the ship read as follows:

Dear Father and Mother and Sisters. I am sending another photo of the same ship. This is the 3rd one I sent you. This goes from Queenstown and the last one I sent from Cherbourg, the first one from Southampton. They are three different views of the same ship. I am not sick yet. She is a nice ship to ride on. I’ll write from New York next time.

From your loving son,

Stephen.

His body was not found but he is remembered on the family headstone at Barnoon. Messrs Carbines and Nicholls lived at The Stennack. William Berriman lived at Hellesveor.

Stephen Curnow Jenkins’ inscription on the family headstone

In all 12 ‘Cousin Jacks’ were lost in the disaster. Fairview Lawn Cemetery near Halifax, Nova Scotia is the largest single resting place for Titanic victims. See the video below for a video taken at the ‘Titanic Cemetery’.

30 of the 121 graves are unidentified.

Article and video by: Tony Mason

Featured image: RMS Titanic departing Southampton on April 10, 1912 (Wikimedia Commons).

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Events News

St Ives Archive and St Ives Town Council Secure Funding for Market House Move

St Ives Town Council Joint Press Release  

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25th March 2024

St Ives Archive is on the move, as the partnership between the Archive and the Town Council secures Government Funding 

St Ives Town Council, working in close partnership with St Ives Archive, are thrilled to announce that Community Ownership funding has been secured to help the relocation of the Archive to the historic Market House.

Plans involve the renovation of the first floor of Market House to bring the Archive back to the heart of the town. The distinctive Grade II Listed building will have an improved access and be opened up to the community for the first time in decades.

Market House, St Ives
Market House, St Ives in 2007 (Photo: Kenneth Allen / Wikimedia Commons)

£275,000 has been awarded from the fund, which will enable the restoration and refurbishment works, improving the access to the building while enhancing the important historic features.

The Community Ownership Fund has so far awarded £71.4 million to 257 projects across the UK, and the St Ives Archive’s relocation to Market House is part of the third round of the fund.

Returning to the heart of the Town, the Archive will be able to welcome more visitors, revealing a wealth of important local material and by moving to Market House, a unique local landmark building will be restored and safeguarded for the future.

The second community open day at Market House, will take place this week on 28th March 2024 between 10am and 3pm. Today’s (25th March 2024) announcement will make the day more special as there is now great confidence that the project will become a reality.  All are welcome to take a look inside Market House, enjoy a celebratory slice of cake, and view the exhibition about Bryan Pearce, renowned St Ives artist, who portrayed Market House in his paintings, many times.

Councillor Tony Harris, Chair of the Finance and General Purposes Committee for St Ives Town Council said:  

“I am absolutely delighted at this news! St Ives Archive can realise their long-held dream of moving back into the heart of our community, where it belongs. The move to the Market House will help the Centre provide archival and local history services for many more local people and visitors alike. This will help further safeguard and promote our local heritage for generations to come. Its new home, Market House has its own fascinating history and is a perfect match. Funding has made this possible, but it would not have happened without the trustees at the Centre and the Town Council’s own team working tirelessly together.”

Lyn Burchess, Chair of the Archive said:  

“We have been working very closely with the town council for many months on this exciting project, with the aim of moving back into town. The Market house is an iconic building, and it’s a perfect fit for the Archive, allowing more people to access our wonderful heritage.”

Community Ownership funding is awarded by the Department of Levelling Up Housing and Communities across England, Scotland, Northern Ireland and Wales. The programme is allocating over £150 million in funding to support community ownership of local assets. The project was one of two in Cornwall in round three, window 3. It is eligible because the Town Council will be passing a long lease of the first floor premises to the Archive, to safeguard its future as a community project.

https://www.gov.uk/guidance/community-ownership-fund-first-round-successful-bidders#round-3-window-3-successful-bidders

Most of the funding is for capital works but a small amount will help the Archive fund a project officer. Funding will allow the project to go ahead, although a smaller award of a Town Deal Enterprise grant has been approved in principle but awaits final sign off.

Categories
Events History and Heritage News

St Ives Archive is Coming to Town!

In 2023, St Ives Town Council approached the Trustees of St Ives Archive and offered them a permanent home – Market House in Market Place. It is a perfect partnership, enabling the guardians of St Ives history to breathe life once again into this important building, which was Grade II listed in 1972.

The Market House has been the home of commerce and administration in St Ives since 1490. The original building was made of wood with an open ground floor which provided a sheltered area for trading. In 1832 this building was demolished and replaced by the larger granite building that exists today. The rounded ends of Market House, which gives the building such a distinctive shape, were designed for a specific purpose. The rounded ends allowed space for carts carrying ships’ masts to and from the Harbour to negotiate around the tight corners of St Ives’ streets.

The first floor of the new Market House became the Town Hall. It became both the council chamber for St Ives Town Council and also the Magistrate’s Court until the new Guildhall was built in Street an Pol and the Municipal Offices relocated there in 1940.  

Since it was founded in 1996, St Ives Archive has never had a permanent home. Wesley Methodist Church in Carbis Bay is currently its third location, and to move back into St Ives was always the aim of the Archive. So when the Archive Trustees were approached by the town council with the offer to move into the first floor of Market House, they were delighted to accept. The proposal is subject to raising the necessary funding, with the aim of completion in 2025. Applications for a St Ives Enterprise grant and the Government’s Community Ownership Fund are being prepared.

Archive volunteers were the first members of the public to have an escorted tour of the premises. An Open Day hosted by the Archive was held on 15th December 2023, and the response from the many visitors was overwhelmingly positive towards the move. On Thursday 28th March 2024, from 10am until 3pm, St Ives Archive will once again open the doors of Market House and hold a second Open Day with the co-operation of the Town Council.

It will be an opportunity to see the historic first floor – complete with the ceremonial chair and cells – before the first floor is closed for renovation. Refreshments will be available on the Open Day and a selection of Archive publications will be on sale. Volunteers will be there to give information and answer questions about the Archive and also to extend a warm welcome to any prospective volunteers. Volunteers are the life blood of the Archive and each one is valued for their commitment, time and skills at every level. This is an exciting time to join the team of enthusiastic volunteers and to experience being part of this unique project of relocation and the creation of a new Heritage and Study Centre.

By: Wendy Grove

This article was originally published in the March / April 2024 issue of St Ives Local magazine.

Image: Market Place, St Ives pictured in April 2010. Market House and Moffat Gallery can be seen on the right with St Eia House and No Worries souvenir shop on the left (Source: Wikimedia Commons).

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Events News

Market House Open Day on 28th March

St Ives Archive invite you to view the historical Market House, which will be our new home after restoring the first floor and transforming it into a modern facility for reference, display and study with access for all.

While the restoration project is still in the early stages, we are excited to open the doors to the public for a “before” look around the historical space. Join us on Thursday the 28th of March from 10am-3pm for coffee, cake and a display on Bryan Pearce, the St Ives artist who painted this beautiful picture of the Market House below (thank you Royal Cornwall Museum for permission to reproduce his work).

For more information about our move to the Market House in partnership with St Ives Town Council, please read our joint press release here.

If you are able to make a donation in support of our move to the Market House, we would be very grateful as a registered UK charity. A donation can be made through the Donate page on the website or by contacting the team at admin@stivesarchive.org.

We hope to see you at the Open Day!

Categories
Events News

St Ives Archive Open Day at the Market House on 15th December

Archive aweigh!

St Ives Archive invites you to an Open Day at the Market House on the 15th December from 10:00am – 15:00pm.

The St Ives Archive is on the move, having been in its present home for the last five years in Carbis Bay an opportunity has arisen to move into the town centre again. The first floor space has now become vacant in the Market Place building and the St Ives Town Council have offered this great space to create a new heritage study centre and storage facility for the St Ives Archive. 

This move will provide greater access for everyone to visit the collection and learn more about the fascinating history of St Ives from early times. The Market House building itself was completed in 1832 just five years before Queen Victoria came to the throne. The building is an important historic asset and the home of the former borough council and assizes. The original building was open downstairs and was covered later in the 20th Century to create shop units. In contrast, the upstairs is, amazingly, little changed from its early days. The raised Council chair and seating are all still in position along with the old cell food hatches from the assize court days.

Whilst the building is in sound condition there is a lot to do to bring it into the 21st century. The existing access is generally unsuitable and lift access will need to be provided for those not able to use the stairs. Modern archive storage facilities will be needed along with new toilet and kitchen areas and a fresh coat of paint all around!

Lyn Burchess, Chair of the Archive, said:

“The hard work has begun and we are looking to take advantage of this opportunity to increase our accessibility to the community by extending our opening hours and providing up-to-date facilities, catalogue access and equipment in a refurbished building. The journey started over a year ago with the purchase and implementation of a new online browser-based catalogue bringing together our legacy databases in one place. The work is ongoing and the refinements to the contents of the new Epexio system will take a few more years yet.

We are hoping to move into the Market House in 2025 but this is dependent upon availability of funding to carry out the renovation work. We are currently progressing applications to the St Ives Enterprise grant and also the Government’s Community Ownership Fund.

We also need to raise our own funds to make the move happen and to finance the running costs for new accessible opening hours, equipment and systems. We are holding an Open Day on the 15th December to give everybody a chance to see inside a building they rarely see the interior of and also enjoy a display from our Archive collections. This all needs new volunteers to help deliver the change. We would particularly welcome those volunteers with skills in fundraising, cataloguing and marketing.”

If you are able to volunteer please email the Chair at admin@stivesarchive.org and we can arrange a chat. Equally, if you are able to make a donation we would be very grateful as a registered UK charity. A donation can be made through the Donate page on the website or by contacting the team via the above email address.

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History and Heritage

The Night of the Cintra Gale – 130 Years Later

Today marks the 130th anniversary (17 November 1893) of a notorious night/early morning in St Ives Bay when five ships were wrecked on what became known as the Night of the Cintra Gale. A crankshaft broke loose in the engine room of steamer Hampshire, tearing a massive hole in the hull. The ship went down within an hour 10 miles north of Godrevy Head with the loss of the captain and 14 crew. Cintra, Bessie, Vulture and Rosedale came to grief on Carbis Bay and Porthminster beaches.

This awful night would be a largely forgotten footnote in the story of Cornish maritime disasters but for reminders visible to this day – as seen in the video below – and an incident featuring one of St Ives’ most famous artists. At the lowest tides you can walk around what’s left of the three ships that met their end at Carbis Bay.

St Ives lifeboat Exeter II was launched but conditions meant that it could not go farther than Pedn Olva before giving up, oars broken. Eyewitness Sam Cleave observed, “they’ve got the lifeboat out but they won’t do nothing against that sea.” The wind brought the morning train from St Erth to a standstill as it approached the dunes in front of West Cornwall golf course, with the fury of the gale causing immense damage throughout Cornwall. As reported in The Cornishman, around 1,000 lives were lost at sea and on land.

The anchor of 418 ton collier Cintra of Liverpool was recovered from the seabed in 1959 and installed on Smeaton’s Pier in 2003. A nod to this is just 100 yards away, as the premises formerly trading as Caffé Pasta became Cintra Seafood Bar in Spring 2023.  

Cintra ended up near the Porthminster Point end of Carbis Bay Beach. Captained by Henry Green of Brixham, the huge seas had already buckled stanchions and destroyed its ventilators but at 2 a.m. the windlass seized up, jamming the anchor chains solid. As dawn broke, the gale changed to NNE. As the ship was about to sink at anchor some crew tried to cut the fouled chains with hammers and chisels, only to be driven back to the shelter of the bridge.

Captain Green hoisted a distress signal and ordered the lifeboat to be lowered but it capsized on meeting the water, causing Chief engineer Rogers, fireman Summers and two able seamen to disappear in the surf. Cintra lurched onto the sands and it was every man for himself. Captain Green, steward Jones, two engineers and a fireman jumped overboard, but able seaman Ash of Brixham, though handed a lifebelt by the captain, stayed behind, hoping the collier would ebb dry. The rest were dragged ashore by coastguards and rocket men. Cintra suddenly broke up, drowning Ash, one of seven of the 12-person crew to perish.

The remains of Bessie and Vulture lie near Carrack Gladden, a few yards from the headland which divides the beach from Porthkidney Sands. Vulture’s crew, all from St Ives and Hayle, were landed by breeches buoy. All aboard Bessie were also safely rescued. The photo below shows 287-ton SS Bessie broadside to the surf, with the boilers of 345-ton Vulture of Cardiff beyond.

Bessie has the unusual if melancholy distinction of being wrecked on both her maiden and final voyages. Built in 1865 for the busy Hayle – Bristol trade route and launched by Harvey and Company of Hayle, the collier ran aground on Hayle Bar in a heavy north-easterly gale on 11 January 1866. In mountainous seas, St Ives’ first RNLI lifeboat ‘Moses’ was unable to reach the casualty so a telegram was sent to Penzance requesting help.

Drawn by eight horses through Canon’s Town and Lelant, Penzance lifeboat ‘Richard Lewis’ and its crew of 12 met ‘Moses’ in St Ives and both boats set off together. After a long struggle Bessie’s captain and crew of eight were brought ashore. The Silver Medal was awarded to Penzance Coxswain Thomas Carbis three weeks later with the following citation: “The long struggle of both crews to reach the wreck and their coolness and judgement in the actual rescue were beyond all praise”. Additional payments were awarded to both crews.

The 936-ton cargo steamer Rosedale wound up at Porthminster, broken beyond repair. Out of Southampton en route to Cardiff, the captain had no option but to try and ground on the beach. Sam Cleave stated that he did this with some skill but correctly assessed that the ship was “leaking water at every hole it can find and will be fit for nothing but scrap”.

The next day, Richard Taylor and James Stevens, aged 12 and 13 took brass fittings lifted from the ship to marine stores dealer Alfred Wallis (his business a few yards from Quay Street closed in 1912, after which he started working for a local antiques dealer. It was not until his wife’s death in 1922 that he took up painting “for company”). The boys grudgingly accepted Alfred’s meagre offer and boasted of their windfall in The Sloop. Word spread, resulting in Sergeant Jones paying Alfred a visit to enquire if he had recently acquired any brass. It was well hidden in a bag of bones so the policeman found nothing but Alfred knew he had to shift it – fast.

The following day he cycled to Penzance, feeling “more relieved the further I got from St Ives”. Sadly, his confidence was misplaced for on arrival at Denley’s (the intended purchaser), he was greeted by none other than Sgt Jones. Soon in the dock at the St Ives Borough Police Court, Alfred was fined £10 for receiving stolen goods. This was a large sum for a man who would end his days penniless at Madron workhouse but he was (just) able to pay, avoiding time in Bodmin jail. The lads were less fortunate. Unable to raise their fine of 25 shillings each, they spent a month at Bodmin.

The photo of Rosedale below shows the high sandbank that forms on the beach after high tides with a strong northerly wind, and New Pier, built in 1866.

Article and video by: Tony Mason

To learn more about the maritime history of St Ives, visit us at the Archive Centre in Carbis Bay. You can find our opening hours here and book your visit in advance by filling in a form here.

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History and Heritage

Plagues, Pandemics and Epidemics Through History: Part 1

Introduction and the Black Death with Particular Reference to S.W. England

By: Dr John Sell

The first living things on earth were single celled organisms from which all other life forms developed. What many people have still to realise is that we are still totally dependent on them to produce an environment in which the higher forms of plants and animals can flourish. Single celled organisms can be divided into different categories and those which are relevant to disease in humans and animals are certain viruses, bacteria and fungi which have developed lifestyles which can cause harm when they grow in animal and plant bodies. Of the many potentially disease causing organisms it is certain bacteria and viruses which have caused greatest havoc among humans, but most of these have been transferred to mankind from animals, when habitats and lifestyles have overlapped. 

Infectious disease has been a hazard of life for millions of years and would have affected all hominids as soon as they came into existence. Because the human population was so small and people lived in quite isolated social groups it wasn’t until relatively late in the history of humanity, when larger tightly packed centres of population appeared and facilitated spread, that large epidemics and pandemics appeared. One of the earliest recorded pandemics was the so-called Antonine Plague which broke out in A.D. 165 and lasted until A.D. 180. It was widely believed to have been Smallpox but more recently Measles has been suggested. It appeared in the Roman Army which was besieging Seleucia in Mesopotamia and quickly spread to Gaul and the legions stationed along the Rhine. The death count has been estimated at 5 – 10 million or approximately 10% of the population of the Roman Empire. The first recorded pandemic caused by the bacterium Yersinia pestis was the so-called Justinian Plague of 541 – 549 A.D. which continued sporadically until c. 750 A.D. It afflicted the Mediterranean, Near East and Europe wreaking havoc throughout Constantinople and the Byzantine Empire. Recent discoveries from Edix Hill in Cambridgeshire indicate that it reached Britain, possibly earlier than it affected the Byzantine Empire. It has recently been suggested that it reduced the population of Britain from 4-5 million down to around 2 million.

THE BLACK DEATH

The Justinian Plague is the first known pandemic caused by the bacterium Yersinia pestis which was to cause the Black Death six hundred years later and the Hong Kong plague of the late nineteenth century and which still occasionally causes death today. Y. pestis is capable of causing three types of plague, the best known being Bubonic plague, spread by the bite of carrier rats, of which there were many in ancient times, living in close proximity with humans. The bacteria infected the body and became localized in lymph nodes causing painful swelling, putrefaction and gangrene, called buboes, hence the name Bubonic plague. The other two types of plague are Pneumonic plague where the bacteria enter via the lungs. This type causes an even quicker death than the other two and is now thought to have been the main method of spread from person to person. The third type is Septicaemic plague where the infection enters more directly into the blood stream. In the Black Death most cases were at one time thought to be of Bubonic plague but more recent experiments based on droplet spread, as in the studies of Covid, have led to the conclusion that the Pneumonic plague probably accounted for at least as many deaths as the Bubonic plague.

Yersinia pestis was first identified by Dr Yersin at the Pasteur Institute in Paris in 1894 and was originally called Pasteurella pestis or Bacille de la peste, but its name was changed in 1944 to honour its discoverer. Paleogenetics, a branch of science which enables the genetic analysis of molecular material, was used in 2011 to produce a complete sequence of Yersinia pestis from a Black Death cemetery in central London, used exclusively to bury victims of the 1340s plague and then closed when the plague had passed. In 2015 this technique was used to identify Y. pestis in Bronze Age samples. The oldest known sample found from a human body is 5,000 years old.

These Neolithic and Bronze Age samples are from N. Eurasia, modern China and Russia. The strains alive today most closely related to the Justinianic plague and Black Death are from the Tian Shan mountains and the Junggar Basin between China and Kyrgyzstan. Marmots there have strains of Y. pestis closely related to strains from historical plague victims.

How the Black Death travelled from central Asia to north west Europe is a question that has exercised historians and epidemiologists for a long time, but we do seem to be closer to answering it and it is linked to large population movements particularly those related to the spread of the Mongol Empire and the provisioning of its armies in the 12th and 13th centuries. 

In 1345 plague appeared and quickly spread in the Mongol army while it was besieging the city of Kaffa, (modern day Feodosiya, on the Black Sea coast of the Crimea) In desperation they catapulted plague infected corpses into the city so infecting the population. There had been a flourishing trade link in grain between Kaffa and Europe, particularly with Genoa in Italy, which was embargoed during the siege and the plague, but the embargo was lifted in 1347 so allowing infected rodents, attracted to the rich pickings of sacks of grain, to hitch lifts in grain shipments destined for much of Europe. So the seed of the Black Death was literally sown and carried by rats, spreading rapidly among the tightly packed populations of N. Europe, killing victims in hundreds of thousands.

The English Channel has often been a line of defence between Britain and the continent in matters of war and disease, but in 1348, just one year after plague hit the rest of Europe, it made its unwelcome presence felt in southern England. In August 1348 plague appeared in Weymouth, Dorset, clearly brought from Normandy, either on a merchant ship, or possibly with a returning military expedition to Calais. Summer and autumn that year were very wet, possibly causing people’s resistance to infection to be lowered and motivating them to shelter together more than usual to avoid the incessant rain.

The Black Death spread rapidly, and killed quickly, many dying in days or even hours of infection. In the west country in October 1348, ecclesiastical processions to entreat the Almighty were ordered in the diocese of Exeter. In 1349 it was so widespread that the law courts were suspended from Hilary until Michaelmas, January to September. Even parliament was suspended for a time. All classes of society were affected from royalty to serf. The clergy, who tried to minister to the sick, paid a particularly heavy toll, some establishments losing all their personnel and hence their support of the parishes disappeared when most needed. Even ships at sea did not escape, with reports of whole crews succumbing and unmanned vessels drifting. Town populations suffered most, but the countryside did not escape and animals died in great numbers when there was no one left to look after them.

Although maps of the spread of plague would suggest otherwise, the population of Cornwall was as severely affected by the Black Death as the rest of England. It had peaked in the late 13th century at around 107,000 but following the Black death was reduced to around 65,000. More than half the clergy had died from their close contact with their dying parishioners. In the Deanery of Penwith 12 of 14 priests died. By 1378 Truro was reported to be entirely desolate and waste. Half the farms and smallholdings had no tenants and between 1349 and 1352 harvests were disastrously poor and little had improved by the 1370s.

Bodmin was also particularly badly hit. Between 1348 – 50 1,500 persons are said to have died, approximately half the estimated population. The county’s economy suffered. Between the 12th and 14th centuries there had been growth in population and the economy, with settlement of upland areas. Many of these moorland hamlets were abandoned. Tin production, important since pre-Roman times, was reduced by 80% by 1351, but had recovered by the 1380s, as shown by examination of the Stannary records. Moresk Manor, at modern day St Clements near Truro, had half its farms with no tenants, and Wendron near Helston, had only a third of its former population. The relative variety of the Cornish economy did however cushion the county from the extreme losses experienced elsewhere.

This drastic loss of life radically changed the economic and social structure of the country and county. The old feudal and manorial system ended and the survivors were in such demand for their labour that they could almost name their price and object to working conditions previously accepted as normal. With the breakdown of feudalism, labourers, even serfs,  were more able to move away from their old masters, and new masters, in need of labour, were less inclined to ask searching questions about their previous work records. The landholding class was reduced in size and holdings increased in size as ownerless holdings were taken over. The balance of livestock changed, sheep farming increasing because it required less labour than cattle farming.

Although the Black Death had mostly abated by the 1350s smaller outbreaks of plague continued, starting in 1360 – 62 and continuing into the 17th century, particularly in cities and urban areas. In Tudor England plague made its presence felt most summers in cities and large towns necessitating the closure of gathering places like theatres and pleasure gardens.

There is little information about the Black Death in the St Ives locality in the 14th century, but it is unlikely that the region escaped unscathed. Certainly St Ives had several visits by the plague during the 17th century. John Hobson Matthews, in his History of St Ives, records episodes in 1603, 1629, 1646, and 1710 – 11.

In September 1603, the year of Queen Elizabeth I’s death, herself scarred by smallpox earlier in her life, but who avoided the plague: Regulations for prevention of the plague which was raging throughout the country. No inhabitant may receive a stranger coming by land or sea from an infected district. Persons arriving by sea at St Ives from an infected district are to remain in their ships.

Matthews 170

In 1629 the borough accounts record: deliued the constables to make puision for the companie of an Irishe barke that came from ffraunce havinge the sicknes abord her 3s 4d.

For bread and drinke to the ffishermen  that went abord her being shutt upp 8d.

Matthews 189

In 1646 – 7 i.e. during the Civil War, plague followed by famine returned. 535 people, about a third of the population of St Ives fell victim. (? died) Food brought from neighbouring parishes had to be laid beside the streams that bounded the infected district and townspeople placed their money in the streams at Polmanter and Carbis Valley. Each parcel was ticketed with the price to be paid and purchasers were not to approach the place where the money was laid for several hours. The market was closed for a considerable time. The Stephens shut themselves up in their country house at Ayr and escaped infection. Hicks, the historian, said that more would have died from famine than plague if a ship belonging to Mr Opye of Plymouth, had not come to harbour laden with wheat and some butts of sack (a fortified white wine imported from Spain or the Canaries, very similar to sherry) which was bought for £196 by the mayor and other gentlemen and distributed to the hungry population.

Matthews 195

The plague continued intermittently in the town into the 18th century. In 1710 the borough council paid 1s 1d for a proclamation to be made about the plague and other matters. 

Plagues, Pandemics and Epidemics Through History’ is a four-part series written by Dr John Sell. ‘Introduction and the Black Death with Particular Reference to S.W. England’ is Part 1 in the series.

REFERENCES:

When the Black Death arrived in Europe. Interview with Monica H. Green in BBC History Magazine June 2022

Cornwall in the Thirteenth Century, Dr James Whetter

Cornwall, Philip Payton

Mediaeval Cornwall, Elliott-Binns

Parochial history of Cornwall, Peter Thurstan

A History of St Ives, Lelant, Zennor and Towednack, John Hobson Matthews

Featured image: The Depiction of Death Sweeping Through a Crowd (Wikimedia Commons)

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Events News

Plans for a new Archive to Unlock the Secrets of Market House

St Ives Town Council Joint Press Release  

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21 June 2023

Plans for a new Archive to Unlock the Secrets of Market House 

St Ives Town Council, working in close partnership with St Ives Archive are about to embark upon an exciting new heritage project to create an Archive Resource Centre in the centre of the town. The project’s aim is to renovate the first floor of Market House, bringing it back into community use for the first time in decades.  

The St Ives Archive, now celebrating its 27th year, was for many years located at the Parish Rooms. Following the sale of the Rooms five years ago, the Archive has operated from the Wesley Chapel in Carbis Bay, but has always aspired to return to a prominent location in the town so more people can access its wealth of important local material.  The organisation is operated by local volunteers and is self-supporting from its own fundraising activities. 

The Town Council is the owner of the Market House, a listed building built in 1832. The first-floor premises are an impressive heritage asset, retaining many original features of the old Guildhall where the Mayor and Corporation met to discuss the town’s affairs. Regular magistrate court hearings were also held, complete with original judge’s chair and prisoner cells, yet few people have had the opportunity to look inside. The building is in good shape but the upstairs rooms are in need of sensitive restoration.  

The ambition is to refurbish the upper rooms into a modern facility for reference, display and study with access for all. This will then be leased and operated by the Archive. The project will also involve the departure of the snooker club and the Council has considered this very carefully. But with the club’s dwindling membership, the community benefits of housing the Archive and the chance to restore the historic building, meant this difficult decision has been taken.  

The project will take some time to progress – the restoration work will require listed building consent for a new access.  The Council and the Archive will be working closely together over the coming months, to progress the scheme and develop a funding strategy to seek grant funding for the works.  

Councillor Tony Harris, Chair of the Finance and General Purposes Committee said:  

“This exciting project will bring together the Archive’s local treasure trove and a building with a hidden history. Although the project is at an early stage, the Council is fully committed to working with the Archive to unlock the funds needed to restore this unique building for a very fitting use. We hope it will also ensure more local people have the chance to enjoy the history of the parish.” 

Lyn Burchess, the Archive Chair said:  

“This is a once in a lifetime opportunity to make the  Archive a focus for the community it serves  and  also serve the wider visiting public. We look forward to working with the Town Council to make this exciting vision a reality.”